Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Hooked Clasps and Where to Find Them: Similarities and Differences in Dress Accessories in Europe North of the Alps

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
A United Europe of Things

Part of the book series: Themes in Contemporary Archaeology ((TCA))

  • 57 Accesses

Abstract

Late medieval dress accessories are a category of objects that seems to be very uniform throughout Europe north of the Alps. Similar designs of buckles, strap-ends and belt mounts or brooches are known from London as well as Novgorod, Pisa and Tallinn. This common horizon, however, is only apparent superficially. A more in-depth study, based on international literature and databases of artefacts acquired by the public, points to differences and regionally emerging specific categories of objects. One such example worthy of study are late medieval hooked clasps and eyes – which show the complexities of interpreting local and pan-European material culture. This chapter will discuss these objects, attempting to systematise their nomenclature, dissemination, use and chronology, based on archaeological finds and contemporary images thereof.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Log in via an institution
Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 99.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Hardcover Book
USD 129.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Notes

  1. 1.

    Early medieval hooked clasps are also known in Central-Eastern Europe, but they seem to disappear by the beginning of the twelfth century. In this text I focus specifically on the late medieval examples of these artefacts.

References

  • Bárdos, E. (1987). Középkori templom és temető Kaposvár határában II. Somogyi Múzeumok Közleményei, 8, 5–81.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bednarz, S. (2016). Sprzączki z wykopalisk przy ulicy Chmielnej 73–74 w Gdańsku. In R. Krzywdziński (Ed.), Dantiscum (Vol. I, pp. 267–334). Dantiscum. Pracownia Badań Archeologicznych.

    Google Scholar 

  • Berthon, A. A. (2013). Les objects métalliques aux XIIIe–XIVe siècles, aspects de la culture matérielle. In M. Bois (Ed.), Au Moyen Âge entre Provence et Dauphiné : Archéologie et histoire autour de Lachau en Baronnies (pp. 85–94). Alpha.

    Google Scholar 

  • Boucher, F. (2012). Historia mody: Dzieje ubiorów od czasów prehistorycznych do końca XX wieku. (P. Wrzosek, Trans.). Wydawnictwo ‘Arkady’.

    Google Scholar 

  • Bourgarit, D., & Thomas, N. (2012). Late medieval copper alloying practices: A view from a Parisian workshop of the 14th century AD. Journal of Archaeological Science, 39(10), 3052–3070. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jas.2012.04.009

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Cassels, A. K. (2013). The social significance of late medieval dress accessories [Unpublished Doctoral dissertation]. University of Sheffield.

    Google Scholar 

  • Dobat, A. S., Deckers, P., Heeren, S., Lewis, M., Thomas, S., & Wessman, A. (2020). Towards a cooperative approach to hobby metal detecting: The European Public Finds Recording Network (EPFRN) vision statement. European Journal of Archaeology, 23(2), 272–292. https://doi.org/10.1017/eaa.2020.1

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Drążkowska, A. (2008). Odzież grobowa w Rzeczypospolitej w XVII i XVIII wieku. Naukowe Uniwersytetu Mikołaja Kopernika.

    Google Scholar 

  • Egan, G., & Pritchard, F. (2002). Dress accessories, c. 1150–c. 1450 (2nd ed.). Boydell Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Eicher, J. B. (Ed.). (1995). Dress and ethnicity. Berg Publihsers. https://doi.org/10.2752/9781847881342

  • Frankowska-Makała, M. (2004). Średniowieczne srebrne ozdoby w skarbie ze szczecińskiego Podzamcza. In M. Glińska, K. Kroman, R. Makała, & Z. Krzymuska-Fafius (Eds.), Terra transoderana. Sztuka Pomorza nadodrzańskiego i dawnej Nowej Marchii w średniowieczu. Materiały z seminarium naukowego poświęconego jubileuszowi 50-lecia pracy w muzealnictwie szczecińskim Zofii Krzymuskiej-Fafius, 7–8 czerwca 2002 (pp. 317–331). Stowarzyszenie Historyków Sztuki, Oddział Szczeciński.

    Google Scholar 

  • Geake, H. (2020). Hooked tags and other dress hooks and eyes. British Museum/Portable Antiquities Scheme. https://finds.org.uk/counties/findsrecordingguides/hooked-tags-and-other-dress-hooks

  • Gloger, Z. (1900). Encyklopedja Staropolska ilustrowana (Vol. 1–4). P. Laskauer i W. Babicki.

    Google Scholar 

  • Grupa, M. (2005). Ubiór mieszczan i szlachty z XVI–XVIII wieku z kościoła p.w. Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Toruniu. Uniwersytetu Mikołaja Kopernika.

    Google Scholar 

  • Gutkowska-Rychlewska, M. (1968). Historia ubiorów. Zakład Narodowy im. Ossolińskich.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hatházi, G. (2009). A déli Kiskunság 14–15. századi kincsleletei és azok lehetséges kun vonatkozásai. In Sz. Rosta (Ed.), Kun-kép – A magyarországi kunok hagyatéka (pp. 67–111). Bács-Kiskun Megyei Önkormányzat Múzeumi Szervezete, Kiskun Múzeuma.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hayeur Smith, M., Arneborg, J., & Smith, K. P. (2015). The ‘Burgundian’ hat from Herjolfsnes, Greenland: New discoveries, new dates. Danish Journal of Archaeology, 4(1), 21–32. https://doi.org/10.1080/21662282.2016.1151615

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Heller, S.-G. (Ed.). (2017). A cultural history of dress and fashion in the medieval age. Bloomsbury Academic.

    Google Scholar 

  • Horváth, F. (1975). Szer plébániatemploma és a település középkori története. Móra Ferenc Múzeum Évkönyve, 1974–1975, 343–373.

    Google Scholar 

  • Hovgaard, W. (1925). The Norsemen in Greenland: Recent discoveries at Herjolfsnes. Geographical Review, 15(4), 605. https://doi.org/10.2307/208626

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Krabath, S. (2001). Die hoch- und spätmittelalterlichen Buntmetallfunde nördlich der Alpen: Eine archäologisch-kunsthistorische Untersuchung zu ihrer Herstellungstechnik, Funktionalen und zeitlichen Bestimmung. Verlag Marie Leidorf.

    Google Scholar 

  • Krabath, S., Lambacher, L., & Kluge, B. (Eds.). (2006). Der Pritzwalker Silberfund: Schmuck des späten Mittelalters: Katalog zur Sonderausstellung anlässlich des 750. Jubiläums der Stadtrechtsverleihung an Pritzwalk im Stadt- und Brauereimuseum Pritzwalk vom 28. Mai bis 29. Oktober 2006: Eine Ausstellung im Rahmen des Föderalen Programms der Stiftung Preußischer Kulturbesitz: Zugleich Bestandskatalog XXIII des Kunstgewerbemuseum der Staatlichen Museen zu Berlin, Mittel- und Nordeuropäischer Edelmetallschmuck vom 13. bis zur Mitte des 15. Jahrhunderts. Stadt- und Brauereimuseum.

    Google Scholar 

  • Krawiec, A. (2013). Obcy mężczyźni, obce kobiety. Postrzeganie siebie i innych w relacji z podróży Mikołaja von Popplau. Biuletyn Polskiej Misji Historycznej, 8, 255–280. https://doi.org/10.12775/BPMH.2013.008

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Leśniewska, D. (2016). Okucia końca pasa z wykopalisk przy ulicy Chmielnej 73–74 w Gdańsku. In R. Krzywdziński (Ed.), Dantiscum (Vol. I, pp. 335–357). Dantiscum. Pracownia Badań Archeologicznych.

    Google Scholar 

  • Lewis, M., & Naylor, J. (2013). Anglo-Saxon hooked-tags classification. Portable Antiquities Scheme. https://www.academia.edu/3445469/Anglo_Saxon_Hooked_Tags

    Google Scholar 

  • Mezősiné Kozák, É. (1993). A vértesszentkereszti apátság. Országos Műemlékvédelmi Hivatal.

    Google Scholar 

  • Nørlund, P. (2016). Buried Norsemen at Herjolfsnes. Museum Tusculanum Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Oksanen, E., & Lewis, M. (2020). Medieval commercial sites: As seen through portable antiquities scheme data. The Antiquaries Journal, 100, 1–32. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0003581520000165

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Opitz, K., & Speitel, E. (Eds.). (2010). Die Mittelalterliche Jüdische Kultur in Erfurt (Vol 1 – Der Schatzfund: Archäologie – Kunstgeschichte – Siedlungsgeschichte). Thüringisches Landesamt für Denkmalpflege und Archäologie.

    Google Scholar 

  • Read, B. (2008). Hooked-clasps and eyes. Portcullis Publishing.

    Google Scholar 

  • Rybarczyk, A. (2021). Odzież i akcesoria stroju w średniowiecznym Elblągu. Wydawnictwo IAE PAN.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sawicki, J. (2014). Średniowieczne świeckie odznaki w Polsce na tle europejskim. Uniwersytet Wrocławski.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sawicki, J. (2017). Medieval dress accessories from Nowy Targ Square in Wrocław. Catalogue of finds. Yellow Point Publications.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sawicki, J. (2021a). Dress accessories from Prague, c. 1200–c. 1800. Catalogue of finds. Archeologický ústav AV ČR, Praha and Yellow Point Publications.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sawicki, J. (2021b). Zapinka dwudzielna. In B. Ceynowa (Ed.), Spichlerz Błękitny Baranek. Katalog wystawy (p. 410). Muzuem Archeologiczne w Gdańsku.

    Google Scholar 

  • Sawicki, J., & Karpiński, P. (2017). Case of fittings finds of so-called ‘Lithuanian purses’ from modern Poland [Paper presentation]. 23rd annual meeting of the European Association of Archaeologists, Maastricht, The Netherlands. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/320980056_Case_of_fittings_finds_of_so-called_lithuanian_purses_from_modern_Poland

  • Sawicki, J., & Levá, K. (2022). Late medieval dress accessories in rural communities in Central-Eastern Europe. European Journal of Archaeology, 25(1), 61–79. https://doi.org/10.1017/eaa.2021.20

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Šlancarová, V. (2018). Středověký šperk. Archeologické nálezy z jižní Moravy. Katalog nálezů. Masarykova univerzita. https://doi.org/10.5817/CZ.MUNI.M210-9021-2018

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • Spencer, B. (2010). Pilgrim souvenirs and secular badges (2nd ed.). Boydell Press.

    Google Scholar 

  • Standley, E. R. (2013). Trinkets and charms: The use, meaning and significance of dress accessories 1300–1700. University of Oxford, Institute of Archaeology.

    Google Scholar 

  • Svetikas, E. (2003). Tretininkų odiniai kapšeliai: jų apkalų tipologija, chronologija ir simbolika. Lietuvos archeologija, 24, 241–266.

    Google Scholar 

  • Szatmári, I. (1999). A középkori Csorvás és temploma. A Békés Megyei Múzeumok Közleményei, 20, 83–145.

    Google Scholar 

  • Thuaudet, O. (2020). La fabrication des accessoires en alliage cuivreux de la ceinture des XIIIe–XIVe siècles : le témoignage du mobilier provençal. In Y. Henigfeld, P. Husi, & F. Ravoire (Eds.), L’objet au Moyen Âge et à l’époque moderne : fabriquer, échanger, consommer et recycler (pp. 41–57). Presses Universitaires du Caen.

    Google Scholar 

  • van Beuningen, H. J. E., & Koldeweij, A. M. (Eds.). (1993). Heilig en profaan. 1000 laatmiddeleeuwse insignes uit de collectie H. J. E. van Beuningen. Stichting Middeleeuwse Religieuze en Profane Insignes.

    Google Scholar 

  • Varga, S. (2004). Középkori temető Kisszállás határában. Kőhegyi Mihály ásatása Kisszállás-Templomdombon. Halasi Múzeum, 2, 103–119.

    Google Scholar 

  • Vargha, M. (2015). Hoards, grave goods, jewellery: Objects in hoards and in burial contexts during the Mongol invasion of Central-Eastern Europe. Archaeopress.

    Book  Google Scholar 

  • von Popplau, N., & Radzikowski, P. (1996). Opisanie podróży Mikołaja von Popplau, rycerza rodem z Wrocławia. Trans-Krak.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wachowski, K. (2007). Mon cor plesor. Symbolika przedstawień i napisów na średniowiecznych wyrobach kultury materialnej. In S. Rosik & P. Wiszewski (Eds.), Cor hominis. Wielkie namiętności w dziejach, źródłach i studiach nad przeszłością (pp. 254–279) Uniwersytet Wrocławski.

    Google Scholar 

  • Wachowski, K. (2013). Emblemata mediaevalia profana: Przykład Polski. Uniwersytetu Wrocławskiego.

    Google Scholar 

  • Winter, Z. (1906). Dějiny řemesel a obchodu v Čechách v XIV. a v XV. stoleté. Bursík and Kohout.

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank Micheal Lewis and Maria Vargha for their help with thischapter, as well as Nicolas Thomas and Lise Saussus for their discussions and help in understanding many issues with dress accessories production processes. Otherwise, any errors are mine.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Institute of Archaeology of the Czech Academy of Sciences in Prague, Prague, Czech Republic

    Jakub Sawicki

Authors
  1. Jakub Sawicki
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Jakub Sawicki .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

  1. Institute of Archaeology of the Czech Academy of Sciences in Prague, Prague, Czech Republic

    Jakub Sawicki

  2. Portable Antiquities Scheme, British Museum, London, UK

    Michael Lewis

  3. Department of Archaeology, Charles University, Praha, Czech Republic

    Mária Vargha

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2023 The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature Switzerland AG

About this chapter

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this chapter

Sawicki, J. (2023). Hooked Clasps and Where to Find Them: Similarities and Differences in Dress Accessories in Europe North of the Alps. In: Sawicki, J., Lewis, M., Vargha, M. (eds) A United Europe of Things. Themes in Contemporary Archaeology. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-48336-3_8

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-48336-3_8

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, Cham

  • Print ISBN: 978-3-031-48335-6

  • Online ISBN: 978-3-031-48336-3

  • eBook Packages: HistoryHistory (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics

Search

Navigation